My husband and I wanted to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary in a special way. After all, it’s a major milestone! For our 5th Anniversary, we celebrated with a Trash the Dress photo shoot—so we had decided on a magical 2-week trip in Europe touring Italy and Spain.

Unfortunately, unforeseen circumstances prevented us from responsibly taking/enjoying that trip, but we still wanted to make it special. I think one of our (many) strengths together is that we seldom let things keep us down. We have dealt with a lot together—but we can usually pull it together and still have a good time. Like that time my husband forgot his passport had expired and didn’t realize it until the morning we were traveling to Mexico for him to be a groomsman in a friend’s wedding. (I was also doing the bridal makeup). Somehow through a combination of a positive attitude and really just willing it to happen, we got a new passport issued and made it there by dinnertime!

We weren’t about to trip at the starting line. [Pun intended—-always intend your puns. Creative wordplay is a sign of intelligence. ;-)] It was important that we had the right attitude about this vacation and not get hung up on the fact that it was different than we originally planned. And honestly—-that may be my number one piece of travel advice.

“The key to having a good vacation is knowing that things won’t go as planned. If you get hung up on each day going as scheduled and your “must-dos” and “must-sees” you are setting yourself up to be disappointed. Be ready to pivot. And maybe pivot again.” - Me

The funniest part, is a couple of days after I jotted down this thought, I saw this awesome quote that mirrors my own thoughts above:

"I’m a big believer in winging it. I’m a big believer that you’re never going to find perfect city travel experience or the perfect meal without a constant willingness to experience a bad one. Letting the happy accident happen is what a lot of vacation itineraries miss, I think, and I’m always trying to push people to allow those things to happen rather than stick to some rigid itinerary." - Anthony Bourdain

We decided to spend 1 night at our friends’ house in San Antonio, 3 nights in Marfa, 3 nights in Terlingua, and 2 more nights in San Antonio on our drive back home to Houston. We had been wanting to visit Marfa pretty much ever since we moved to Houston (which was just before we were married, so 10 years ago this year!)

Marfa, TX

Who should visit

Wander-lusters, thrill-seakers and believers of the supernatural, art appreciators/historians

When to visit

Between Spring Break and Thanksgiving Break, Wednesday-Sunday. (Many places are closed Monday & Tuesday—-I didn’t see this anywhere before we went, and it would’ve been very helpful to know)

Overview of Marfa

Marfa is a very unique town with diverse appeal. Situated 4,685 feet above sea-level in the Chihuahuan desert, it is considered a part of the “high desert” (cue the Willie Nelson music!). The combination of low rainfall and high elevation causes some extreme fluctuation in weather even in a single day. Originally your sort of typical sleepy West Texas ranching town, it experienced a revitalization of sorts in 1957 when the movie Giant was filmed nearby and the cast including movie stars like Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean stayed there at Hotel Paisano. The hotel is still there today, and has tons of memorabilia on the first floor. Arguably one of Marfa’s biggest claims to fame, though, are its mystery lights —best viewed from the Mystery Light Viewing Center. Everything from aliens to weird interactions from swamp gases, reflections from car lights, to campfires and even ghosts have been cited as their cause. Last but not least, Marfa is characterized by a heavy-handed touch of whimsy. Yet another revitalization occurred when American minimalist artist Donald Judd founded the Chinati Foundation in what was previously an American military compound. Judd ended up inviting several other artists to stay and create on his property, thus beginning a domino-effect that permanently infused the town with artistic panache everywhere you turn. (Including it’s famous art installation, Prada Marfa—-although it’s technically located in a town called Valentine, about 30 minutes away.) If you want a little more in-depth info about Marfa, check out this well-written article found in Texas Monthly. (And if you live in TX and don’t subscribe, it’s very much worth it!)

Staying at El Cosmico

My husband doesn’t exactly do camping. He’s been precisely 1 night in his entire life. It was originally supposed to be a 2-night camping trip that I organized with a bunch of his fraternity brothers, but it rained on the second day and everyone was kind of a wet blanket about the whole thing (another unabashed pun!) so we bailed. Enter glamping. This glamp-ground has options from spacious renovated trailers (with names based on their size and paint jobs like “lil pinky” and “golden eye”) tee pees, and yurts. Although Hotel Paisano and Hotel Saint George are perfectly respectable options, El Cosmico seemed to capture the quirky artsy-fartsy vibe that is one of Marfa’s major draws (to us at least). I would do it again, 100%.

The entire site feels like a blast from the past 70’s-free-love vibe with a little modern hipster flair. They have parking on-site with luggage carts you can use to take your things to your site. We were given a map upon check-in as well as a list of nearby eateries. We were in “lil pinky,” the tiniest of trailers available (frugal Kate kicked in and honestly just selected the cheapest one they had).

El Cosmico site map and cute trailer names

I will say the bed had a wonderful mattress but was a little small for us (my husband has a very strict “no touching while sleeping” rule. I tried to break it once when he fell asleep holding my hand—-it ended with him flailing suddenly in his sleep and frightening the heck out of me so I have never attempted it since) If you’re traveling solo or you and your companion are cool with being a tangle of limbs, this will be just fine. In all other respects, it had ample room including a place to sit and eat, a mini fridge, a small stove top and basic cooking utensils. We also had a shared deck with the other small pink trailer. Off the deck there was also a small outdoor shower and toilet (modern plumbing). It’s my understanding that all the other trailers come equipped with their own private toilets/showers, but there are communal showers and toilets on both ends of the property for Yurt and Tee Pee rentals, as well as a communal outdoor kitchen with a large refrigerator, several grills, and hot plates. (BYO charcoal and utensils).

There is a very impressive mini-bar in each trailer which contains pretty much everything you could dream of needing. Sundries from chips to oatmeal, ramen to protein bars—- almond milk, CBD-infused candy bars, and of course—booze. (bringing in outside alcohol is a no-no, FYI) They also have everything else you could need (or don’t) from a mini flashlight, to a fancy notebook, koozies, kitschy merit-badges—-even locally made soap, rolling papers (not kidding!) incense, sheet masks, and condoms. Be prepared to pay a premium for any of these goods, though. (There is a super comprehensive price list)

Definitely bring a few of your own favorite beverages— my husband and I bought bottles of water, Jarritos , and his favorite energy drink. We found it common for people to keep a cooler outside their trailer and just refresh the ice, but I was also able to Tetris around the contents of the fridge to accommodate a few of our own things.

They provide coffee in the trailer (no additional cost) but also serve it from 8 am to 11 am in the lobby. There’s places to sit inside and outside this building and a very cool gift shop with lots of hand crafted items. Be warned, the wares are pricey but very tempting as well.

side of lobby/main building at El Cosmico

I loved the El Cosmico “Mananifesto”. This was found inside a super helpful pamphlet in our trailer.

FYI, if you’re a yogi, local yoga studio The Well hosts a Big Sky Yoga event regularly on Saturdays on the stage from 10- 11 am for 12 bucks. BYO Yoga Mat.
Also, my hubby and I found it quite easy to walk around most parts of town- just make sure to bring a flashlight if you stay out late—it gets really dark at night thanks to the Dark Sky ordinance in place.
Bicycles are also available to rent at El Cosmico: 10 bucks for 4 hours.

Things to Eat in Marfa

I did a lot of research about places to eat while we were here. I love to eat! Especially while traveling, but three things prevented me from visiting many of the places I had pegged. 1.) I didn’t know about the whole “Marfa is open Wed-Sat sometimes Sunday” vibe. 2.) Some of the places I wanted to try no longer existed 3.) Others were closed for a week or more perhaps taking their own Summer vacation. So we wung it! Anthony Bourdain would be proud. I included some of the places I didn’t get to try in my run-down because I read (or heard) too many great things about them to not at least alert you that they exist as well.

Breakfast:

-I packed my favorite pancake mix and some oatmeal cups for mornings we were in a time crunch.

Aster (Wed-Sun 8-3)- serving up a variety of coffee, teas (including Chai and turmeric lattes), and fresh squeezed juices in refreshing varieties like beet apple ginger. Breakfast fare includes pastries, some traditional Southern favorites like biscuits ‘n’ gravy and steel cut oatmeal and International-inspired fare like rosti (A Swiss dish: somewhere between a latke and a hashbrown). They also have healthier options like smoothies or an omelet with veggies that comes with a side of smoked salmon, avocado, and quinoa.

Do Your Thing (Closed Tue; Open Wed 8-1, Thur-Sat 8-4, Sun-Mon 8-1)- I tracked down my Matcha fix in the desert! They also serve a variety of fancy (or non-fancy) coffee drinks (including seasonal offerings) and toasts. I had an “everything” toast which was homemade sourdough spread with cream cheese, topped with thin slices of tomato, & sprinkled generously with Everything But The Bagel Seasoning, My hubs had a simple cinnamon sugar toast. Other varieties included Avocado Toast, one with Almond butter, honey, and a touch of Maldon salt, and “The Jerusalem” with avocado, tahini, Za’atar oil, chili flakes, toasted Sesame seeds, and Maldon salt.

LaVenture (Inside Hotel Saint George) (daily 7:30-3) Coffee, pastries, quiche, and more. Stick-to-your ribs Southern favorites like Huevos Rancheros or Oatmeal prepared with steamed milk, honey, and berries will hold you over for hours touring galleries. For something lighter, try the honeyed yogurt with granola. The Mushroom Toast is the star of the menu, though, featuring sherried mushrooms, creme fraiche, poached egg, and sundried tomato served over foccacia. (also serves lunch and reopens later for dinner)

Lunch

Food Shark (Thur- Sat 12-3) Food truck famous in town for serving up fresh Greek fare including veggie wraps, salads, hummus, kabobs, and “Marfalafel”. Specials posted on a chalkboard change daily and sell out quickly. This local favorite shot to notoriety when Beyonce paid them a visit a few years back. cash only.

Pizza Foundation (Fri-Sun 1-9) Great local pizzeria that gets BUSY. Call ahead .(432) 729-3377 I think I read that before we went but I didn’t process that it was a necessity; not a suggestion. My husband and I went in at 1:01 pm. Just one minute after opening and the friendly lady behind the counter said, “it’s about an hour wait for a pizza, is that ok?” The problem was, it wasn’t ok. We had an hour and a half break from our tour at Chinati and we had already wasted the first half hour attempting 2 other places that were closed.) She saw the panic in our eyes and offered a solution, “I had someone call in a half a pizza a week ago so it’ll be ready in 15 minutes. Do you want to purchase the other half?” Thank you, patron saint of pizza. Yes. We purchased the other half. While we waited the 15 minutes for our pizza we heard her sell out of pizzas for the day. That’s right, within 15 minutes of opening, they had already sold through all the pizza they had to make for the day. We enjoyed some cold Mexican Cokes while we waited in their no-frills dining area. They also had a pretty impressive selection of wines, if that’s your thing. Our pizza was great. We did sausage and pepperoni because that’s what was on the other half and it kept it simple. The crust was thin but not crispy—it had a good chew. The perfect amount of cheese. Overall satisfied customers.

Capri Bar (Tue-Sun 12-3, 5-midnight) Beautiful decor with lots of turquoise accents (be still my heart!) Difficult to describe the food since the farm-to-table concept leads to a regularly changing menu based on what’s seasonably available. Known for a variety of interesting cocktails (come back for late night!) and food infused with Chihuahuan Desert influence. Think menu items dusted or smoked in mesquite, spicy Mexican street corn, Prickly Pear reductions adorning your meats, and fresh veggies.

Dinner

Al Campo (Thur-Sat 4-10): This funky restaurant is really pretty charming. Lots of plants and a beautiful open seating area, as well as an enclosed green-house reminiscent space with hanging antlers and flowers featuring a large communal table at it’s heart, make this place have a relaxed but romantic vibe. A somewhat small but diverse menu covers dishes like queso, gazpacho, crepes, and charcuterie to 7-hour smoked chicken, grilled octopus, or a beautiful 16 oz rib eye served with veggies. A nice selection of beer and wine to choose from as well. My husband and I actually ended up sharing queso, and the steak and that was perfect for us. This was one of the best meals we enjoyed in Marfa. We loved the space, and the quirky goat mural. As well as the odd fact that the restaurant also served as entrance to an Airstream trailer offering tattoos called “Slowpoke”; let’s be real, that name is just pure Gold. This dinner was our first night in town and after 12 oz of sparkling rose, I was feeling a little more buzzed than anticipated. Then I remembered…we’re in the high desert.

Cochineal (Thur-Mon 5-10) This place has a beautiful garden in front and a charming outdoor seating area to the side near the entrance. The indoor area is nice as well, but weather permitting, I would choose the outdoor space any day of the week. The menu is ever-changing— Marfan food seems to change quite often partly due to what ingredients are seasonally available but also quite likely in part to the fact that they are artists and crave freedom and variety. Look for some great vegetarian options like the Summer Citrus Salad, Roasted Artichoke, or Risotto Funghi. Carnivores may delight in trying the South Texas Antelope Carpaccio or the Mesquite Grilled Filet Mignon.

Pistachio-crusted Chicken Fried Steak at Jett’s Grill

Jett’s Grill (Dinner served 5-11) Beautiful outdoor patio seating or indoor seating. Located inside the historic Paisano Hotel. We had our anniversary dinner here. My hubs had the Pistachio-Crusted Chicken Fried Steak which came with brussels sprouts as the vegetable of the day. Texas-style poutine, cheese rellenos, and bacon penne tossed in a red tequila sauce round out some solid dinner options. Jett’s also had a great mix of interesting cocktails, but I ended up ordering a classic Old Fashioned. We decided to spring for dessert since we were celebrating and we were deciding between chocolate cake or cheesecake. Well—fun story—the evening my husband proposed, he did so by having “Will you marry me?” written in chocolate on the dessert plate in a restaurant. Every time we went to that restaurant, it was a challenge deciding which dessert to order because my favorite was the chocolate cake and his was the cheesecake. They were each so massive, it seemed ridiculous to get both. Guess which cake he ordered to propose to me with? His favorite. The cheesecake. He’s got balls. I said yes anyway, obviously. But for our anniversary, I decided I was getting my chocolate cake. Rich and perfectly moist, it was definitely the right choice. Our sweet server also comped us with glasses of prosecco for our anniversary which was a sweet touch!

Things to Do in Marfa

Visit the Marfa Visitor Center

Mon-Fri 8-5, Sat 10-1, Closed Sun

The Marfa Visitor Center is a great place to start. They had several helpful brochures—and in true Marfa fashion, each brochure has artistic covers that look like they were originally watercolor or pastel drawings instead of your standard photographs. The gentleman working there also gave us some suggestions for lunch when we went to Alpine.

Beautiful artistic brochures picked up from The Marva Visitors Center

Discover the Marfa & Presidio County Museum

Mon-Sat 1-5

Located in a historic adobe home build in the 1800s this museum covers everything from the local military history (The parcel of land that is now the Chinati Collection was previously Fort D.A. Russell - established originally to prevent raids from the nearby Mexican border during the Mexican revolution, and remaining in use during WWI—taking advantage of its remote location for practicing air drills, and in WWII for retaining German and Russian POWs), to ranching, nearby Native American tribes, early settlers, and the unique geology of the region.

Tour The Chinati Foundation

Wed-Sun 9-5; Closed Mon & Tue

I studied a lot of Art History in high school and college, so one of the biggest draws for me was the Chinati Foundation. Named for the nearby (visible) Chinati mountains, minimalist artist Donald Judd fully embraced the military past of his land. Removing garage doors on the sides of two large artillery sheds and replacing them with huge windows that overlook the neighboring mountains and desert, allow the light and juxtaposition of nature to influence the way you view the works housed there—his 100 unnamed works in mill aluminum. It was Judd’s mission to create a space where artists’ works could live permanently as they intended them to be viewed. It’s best described in his own words:

“It takes a great deal of time and thought to install work carefully. This should not always be thrown away. Most art is fragile and some should be placed and never moved again. Somewhere a portion of contemporary art has to exist as an example of what the art and its context were meant to be.”

Judd went on to extend invitations to many other minimalist artist friends to live and create on his land, promising permanent homes for their work. Some of these artists include John Chamberlain, Dan Flavin, and Claes Oldenburg & Cloosje Van Bruggen.

Frugal Kate loved seeing that the most comprehensive Full Collection tour (4.5 hours) was just 5 bucks more than the Selections tour (2.5 hours) for $20. Even though my husband and I aren’t the biggest fans of minimalist art in general, I’m glad we went for the longer tour because I’m certain some of the works I enjoyed most wouldn’t have been included in the Selections tour.

If you aren’t as big of an art fan but want to be able to check this off the list, Judd’s most well known work (probably because it’s outdoors and easily accessible) 15 unnamed works in concrete spans about a kilometer on the property and is FREE. If you want some healthy middle ground, some works can be self-guided for 10 bucks.

requisite selfie at the Chinati Foundation, in front of Donald Judd’s 15 Untitled Works in Concrete — requisite selfie at the Chinati Foundation, in front of Donald Judd’s *15 Untitled Works in Concrete*

I will say that Dan Flavin’s work was mind-blowing for me and challenged everything I thought I knew about color. I’m not exaggerating. Also, I have been a fan of Claes Oldenburg for a long time ever since I discovered him in a Sculpture class in High School (shoutout to Ms. McCaleb!). What was so fascinating about the piece here is the subtle nod to the property’s past. This large horseshoe would seem to be a Western reference, but instead was inspired by the story of a horse named Louie here during the site’s military days—-but it doesn’t stop there. Depending on how the sun casts the statue’s shadow, the viewer may see a hammer and sickle cast onto the ground.

Of important note: Backpacks and large purses are not allowed, photography is not allowed (I snuck one outside near the unnamed works in concrete, but otherwise refrained) and no food/beverage except water bottles with lids.
Also, if you decide to do the Full Collection Tour, a car is necessary to drive to the John Chamberlain exhibit, located off-site. We had walked from El Cosmico (only about 15 minutes). We retrieved it during our break for lunch.

Peruse More Art!

There are a ton of art galleries to see including the Ayn Foundation [featuring “Last Supper” by Andy Warhol (Thurs-Sat 12-5)], Exhibitions 2D (Wed-Sun 11:30-6), & Ballroom Marfa (Wed-Sat 10-6) which features visual arts as well as performance, film, and music. (There’s plenty more, these are just a few!)

Go Shopping

Peruse the first floor of the Paisano Hotel to take a gander at Giant memorabilia, shop a great curated selection of literature in The Marfa Book Company, which features a selection of publications about Texas, and artists relevant to Marfa, among others (Open daily 9-9). The Marfa Brand Soap Company has locally made soaps and cute home decor (Fri 12-5, Sat 10-5, Sun 10-1). Freda has fun clothing, accessories, and home goods (Wed-Sat 11-5, Sun 11-3).

See the Marfa Mystery Lights

The best spot to see this is at the Marfa Lights Viewing area, located 10 miles East of Marfa on Hwy 90. They have bathrooms, picnic tables, and free binoculars (the big stationary kind like you see on boardwalks). Keep in mind that the Marfa lights aren’t visible every night. I’ve read that they can be seen as often as 90 nights a year or as few as 20. Keep in mind that more clouds in the sky can obstruct your view, and you’ll probably get the best views if the moon is crescent (therefor smaller) than with a full moon. Even if you don’t see the lights, this spot is perfect for watching the sunset and stargazing. (As I mentioned, they are a part of a dark sky ordinance.) Proving what we already knew: The stars at night, are big and bright—deep in the heart of Texas!

Take a Siesta

Take a chance to really unplug and relax. El Cosmico has a great “hammock grove” perfect for laying back, enjoying one of those Jarritos, reading a good book, or taking a snooze!

Siesta from the El Cosmico Hammock Grove

Day Trip!

We made sure to visit the following cities during our time in Marfa, visiting all 3 in one packed daytrip, but you could easily divide them up differently.

Valentine, TX

You could simply drive to Valentine and back to take a gander at the Marfa Prada installation, but we found it easiest to swing around and find it on our way up to Fort Davis and Balmorhea State Park. (pronounced Bal-more-AY). Just about 5 miles West of Marfa on 90, keep your eyes peeled for a mural memorializing the Movie Giant on the right side of the road. They’re pretty giant, you really can’t miss them. There really isn’t much else to see in Valentine, but departing from Valentine to Fort Davis taking 505 to 166 takes you through the Davis Mountains Scenic Loop. Don’t bring reading material for this roughly 1 hour drive up—every view is more beautiful than the last, and I’m telling you, you’ll regret missing anything.

Prada Marfa

(hours: none) Unlike the other establishments in Marfa, this store is never open. That’s because it’s not really a store, but an art installation belonging to Ballroom Marfa. The “store” holds real items from Prada’s Fall 2005 collection. It has become a local landmark of sorts—-a juxtaposition of cityslicker luxury in a desert that is anything but. At one point, the bulletproof glass had a bullet lodged in it as evidence of a vandal’s unsuccessful attempt to make off with the shoes and handbags inside. (Note: They only have right shoes in there, and I don’t think they can check for your size in the back!) Since then, the glass has been replaced.

Fort Davis, TX

The Chihuhuan Desert Research Institute & Botanical Gardens (Mon-Sat 9-5) is definitely worth a stop in Fort Davis. They not only have hiking available (hikes range from half a mile to 2.25 miles), but also a rock garden that chronicles the various types that can be found in the Chihuahuan Desert, a Cactus Greenhouse with over 100 different cacti species, and a bird viewing “blind” enclosed viewing area. There was also a mining exhibit on-site, although we didn’t go inside. The views of the Davis mountains from the Institute are gorgeous and it was helpful learning about the different types of plants and rock found in the area.

The Fort Davis National Historic Site (Daily 8-6) was located here to protect mail coaches, freight wagons, and emigrants traveling on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road. It remains, “one of the best examples of a frontier military post in the American Southwest.” If you time it right, (11 am, 2 pm, or 4pm) you can watch the retreat parade complete with costumed soldiers and bugle calls.

Cool off with a scoop of ice cream at Hebert’s Caboose (Daily 12-9) —an actual caboose-turned-ice-cream-shop. Serving up Texas’ favorite Blue Bell Ice Cream, it was much appreciated after all our time trekking in the heat. There’s a cute seating area in the back with umbrellas for shade.

We also stopped off for lunch in Fort Davis, but tbh I don’t know that I would recommend it. The food was just fine. The people watching was excellent (lots of locals that knew everybody—some uh-may-zing boots and hats) but the ladies’ bathroom didn’t have a lock, looked like it hadn’t been cleaned in maybe a month, plus the door had damage that looked like at one point they had literally trapped a wild animal in it. I don’t want to talk badly about this mom and pop joint, but a bathroom that dirty makes me question the kitchen cleanliness, too. So I won’t blast them publicly but I’m also not going to make a point of telling you to go there.

Balmorhea

Take a dip in Balmorhea State Park (daily 8-7:30). A friend of mine had recommended it, and even so, I wasn’t positive we would go—but I think we were meant to see this 20-million gallon spring-fed pool situated in the corner of this state park. I had packed the July issue of Houstonia Magazine (If you live in Houston and you don’t get this publication, it’s so worth it!) to read on our drive out West. The Cover Article “20 Texas Swimming Holes to Cool Off This Summer” features Balmorhea/ San Solomon Springs. It discusses the park’s recent conservation efforts. The pool was originally constructed by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps: founded in 1933 by FDR to create jobs through conservation efforts). Today it remains the largest spring-fed pool in the world. The experience is unlike any other. I have never before been to a pool where I could swim with the fish; minnows, catfish, and turtles abound. The two “arms” of the pool have a smooth bottom (it’s SUPER slippery, in fact, as it’s covered in algae!) and the center gets deep quickly where the spring connects to the pool. The pool itself is sprinkled with diving boards and people lounging, playing, even snorkeling and scuba diving! The view of the Davis mountains is pristine, and there are picnic tables, a concession stand, and plenty of room to toss a ball or Frisbee, or just lay out and relax. Note that you are welcome to bring outside food and beverages, but alcohol is not permitted. If you can’t get enough, I really enjoyed this article appearing in the June 2019 issue of Texas Monthly going much more in-depth about the restoration of this pool.

Definitely take the time to check out the McDonald Observatory (daily 10-5:30) while you’re out there if you can. They reopen for Star Party nights on Tuesays, Fridays, and Saturdays. If you plan on staying for an evening program, make sure to bring a sweater—remember the Chihuahuan Desert temperature can fluctuate dramatically just in one day with evening temperatures sometimes reaching below freezing. It’s advisable to get tickets for Star Parties in advance, since they sell out quickly.

Have you been to Marfa? Is there someplace you experienced that I did not that you would like to add?

Hi.

Jul 18 Travel Guide to Marfa and Surrounding Towns: Valentine, Fort Davis, & Balmorhea

Marfa, TX

Who should visit

When to visit

Overview of Marfa

Staying at El Cosmico