Travel Guide to Alpine, Terlingua, & Big Bend National Park
My husband and I drove down to stay in Terlingua after visiting Marfa. Click here to read my suggestions for visiting there! We stopped off in San Antonio for a couple of nights before returning home to Houston.
Our first stop heading toward Big Bend was in:
Alpine, TX
You may like to stop and stay awhile in Alpine, but truth be told, it was a blip on the map for us. Our main purpose in stopping here was to visit the museum and grab a bite to eat before continuing our drive to Terlingua, where we stayed for 3 nights.
Things to Do in Alpine:
No matter where you’re coming from, it will be worth your while to stop off in Alpine first and visit Sul Ross State Univerity to see the Museum of The Big Bend (Tue-Sat 9-5, Sun 1-5, Closed Mon). This free museum was incredibly well-curated, and although the space isn’t particularly large, we easily spent the better part of two hours taking it all in. What impressed me so much was how well-rounded the displays were: discussing everything from cultural history (Native Americans to Spanish Missions, Buffalo Soldiers, and Cowboys who occupied the area) to the Geology and wildlife that can be found in the park, and a wonderful collection of early maps. Be sure to go down the hall toward the art exhibit to take a peek at the hidden Sioux Chief Headdress. It is absolutely breathtaking featuring delicate bead-work and the intact Eagle feathers; it’s also easy to miss, as it’s not in with the rest of the displays! If you don’t see it, ask whoever is attending the reception area to point it out to you—-it’s definitely worth finding!
Where to Stay in Alpine:
If you need a place to stop off for the night, you may like to check out the historical Holland Hotel, built in 1928. Designed by architect, Henry Trost, it has been somewhat recently restored but still has that sort of aged patina that makes it feel authentic. We didn’t stay the night, as we were just stopping through on our way further South.
Where to Eat in Alpine:
First of all, I prefer to eat at smaller locally-owned restaurants when I’m traveling, but if you’re traveling with young children that may lose their minds without some chicken nuggets, there is a McDonald’s and a Sonic here. Stop off or forever hold your peace because it will be the last time these options are available for a long, long way out here. If you want to try some of the local joints, here’s what I can recommend:
Breakfast
Taste & See Bakery (Thur 8-4 & 6-8, Fri & Sat 8-3) Get a simple frittata, chia seed pudding, or yogurt parfait for breakfast here as well as some lunch options including soup, salad, or a grilled cheese sandwich. Don’t forget to stock up on fresh baked loaves (made from freshly milled whole grains) to take with you on your way down toward Terlingua/Big Bend.
Lunch
The Reata (Mon-Sat 11:30-2 & 5:30-10, Closed Sun) came highly recommended from the gentleman we spoke with in the Marfa Welcome Center. I regret to tell you we skipped it for BBQ instead. Upon further reflection, I think I would have much preferred the fare here which includes locally-influenced dishes like Tenderloin Tamales with Pecan Mash, Smoked Quail with Jalepeno Cheddar Grits and BBQ Molasses Glaze, or even just Tortilla Soup for the less adventurous. Ugh. My mouth is watering now.
Smokehouse BBQ (Sun-Tue 11:30-3, Closed Wed, Thur-Sat 11:30-3 & 5-8) First thing’s first. If you’re not from Texas, the way the legit Barbecue places do it goes like this: They close when they sell out, which may be well before the posted hours. Good barbecue goes fast, so best get there earlier in the day if you want a lot of options. Several things were sold out when we stopped in, but we still were able to try the brisket, pulled pork, and chicken. The Brisket had wonderful smokey flavor and a good bark (that’s the dark, sweet, hybrid of chewy-yet-somehow-crunchy rind that forms on the outside of the brisket; at least the good ones, anyway). In many BBQ joints, you have the option to pick between a lean cut or a fattier “wet” or “moist” cut (if you hate the word “moist” I’m sorry—-that’s just what they call it.) We weren’t given the option and received a leaner cut. This may be simply because that was the only option available when we were there. Although the chicken and pork were both juicy, I found them lacking a bit in flavor but found it greatly improved when dipped in a bit of the BBQ sauce that was served alongside it. There were two available—one of which was a little sweeter and the other a little smokier. Would have loved to try ribs or sausage, but that’s on us—-we arrived fairly late in the day.
Cow Dog Hotdogs Food Truck (Wed-Sat 11:30-3) Serves up 100% beef grilled hot dogs dressed up with a variety of fixins with appropo names like “The Mexican”, “The Hangover”, and even “The Vegomatic” which features a veggie fritter in lieu of the typical beef dog.
Dinner
If you missed out on the Reata for lunch, it also serves many of the same dishes (plus more) for dinner! Or try
The Century Bar & Grill (M 4-9, Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Sun 11-9) in The Holland Hotel. They offer some delicious-sounding vegetarian and vegan options. (Roasted Root Vegetable Salad—comes with fried goat cheese, which I’m sure could be omitted if asked) and Vegan Stuffed Grilled Portobellos. For meat eaters, try the Guiness Braised Bison Short Ribs, Venison Penne Bolognese, or a steak.
Terlingua, TX & Big Bend National Park
Overview of Terlingua, TX
(Pronounced Ter-ling-gwa) Probably best known for its annual chili competition, Terlingua is really a tiny blip on the map, but it’s where we found our amazing AirBnB. The “Off-Grid Adobe Dome in the Desert” is only about a 30 minute drive from Big Bend National Park, and situated with very little else surrounding it. (scroll down for more on where we stayed.) Terlingua is also known for its nearby “ghost town”. The town was once a thriving Cinnabar mining town. (Cinnabar is the ore from which Mercury is refined). Abandoned in the 40’s, the wreckage of many of the crumbling buildings still stand today.
Off-Grid Adobe Dome in Terlingua, TX
Expect The Unexpected- A Lesson Every Traveler Learns Time and Time Again
My husband and I really had some adventures here—-we ended up saving the life of a dog we named Ruby (after Ruby Rd: the street the home is on—which we later found out our host named for his grandmother.) The poor girl was dehydrated, starving, and covered in fleas, ticks, and cactus spines. After removing the spines, we fed her and got her water. I called our host who was kind enough to let us pen her near his shed to provide her some shade while we figured out how to get her medical attention and returned to her family (if she had one) or find her a home. To make a very long story short, here—The Alpine Humane Society was an amazing help, as was our AirBnB host whose post on an area Facebook community found her a forever home!
Ruby the desert dog
It actually rained three days in a row while we were here. In the desert. I kid you not. They weren’t just drizzles either. They didn’t last all day or anything, but when it rained, it really rained. This rain ended up causing us to get stuck in the mud on one of the back roads near the AirBnB. Well—kind of near—about 1.5 miles from it. Our host did have instructions to avoid those other roads, but we missed seeing them. There is no cell reception here (part of the appeal) so my husband walked to a nearby home to ask to use the phone to call AAA. She was so sweet, returning with her husband and equipped with a container of lemonade, a bag of beef jerky, chips, and cookies for us to eat while we waited. The plus side is my hubby and I watched the sun set behind what the locals apparently call “calmelback" and it was divine.
Completely unedited—-the sunset behind camelback. As viewed from our car stuck in the mud.
Camelback before sunset.
The negative side was that AAA had difficulty finding us, and we had no cell reception to answer (let alone even know) when they tried to call. We stayed until we thought the sunset had about 20 minutes left to go and then started walking back to the AirBnB. This part of the country has a Dark Sky Ordinance, so the last thing we wanted was to be stuck in the desert in the pitch black. We saw jackrabbits, bunnies, a desert fox, and——wait for it—-I almost stepped on a Tarantula. I was several paces in front of my husband when he yells, “Watch out!” with no additional information. I panic not knowing where- or what- to look for and do some kind of weird land-mine tip-toe hop for the next 10 feet. When I turned around, I saw this huge hairy guy (not referring to my husband) just slowly crossing the road, and my heart nearly leapt out of my chest. The hubs just calmly walks past it to join me. “You almost stepped on the poor guy!,” he says.
AAA did make it out the next day to get us un-stuck, but between the car situation and the dog rescue, we lost a lot of time we had originally planned to explore. This is exactly why you can’t get too stuck on your planned itinerary. If you do—when the unexpected inevitably happens, you’re going to be disappointed. But we had to go with the flow. None of the sunsets subsequent to that one came even close to the beauty of the one we saw that evening. We were graced with a double rainbow on our walk home also. (We saw another one the next evening, as well!). I’m also not exaggerating when I tell you we saved this dog’s life. It was inconvenient, yes. But she would have died without our help, and she is such a sweet girl— I am so grateful that she found us so we could help her. So there ya go. It’s super cliche but, look for the rainbows.
Double Rainbow as seen from the Terlingua Trading Post porch.
Without further ado, Here’s what you’re really reading for:
Where to Stay in Terlingua & Surrounding Areas
Off-Grid Adobe Dome in the Desert
We really enjoyed the experience at the Off-Grid Adobe Dome. Trevor is a superhost and was incredibly attentive to our needs (which I suspect were more than most with the dog rescue and all). The home he built himself is really a work of art. (One that many of our friends were quick to point out looked very similar to Luke Skywalker’s childhood home in Tatooine. A reference which may have been intentional, since R2D2 makes an appearance in the form of a sofa pillow inside the home and is also stealthily photo-shopped into one of the featured photos on the listing.) I loved the blue bottles he positioned around each window for a stained-glass effect. The dome is impressively powered via solar panels and utilizes collected rainwater. The dome does not have air conditioning, but we were fairly comfortable once we realized the cord was long enough on the floor fan to pull it to the foot of the bed. We also opened the windows at night to let in a little air—they were fitted with screens to keep insects out. I made use of the kitchen on multiple occasions, able to prepare pancakes and Matcha. The kitchen was frankly impressive—equipped with a small refrigerator, oven, stove, and many basic cooking utensils. (The host also keeps some pantry items stocked which are available for use at-cost using the honor code system and a donation box.) Local coffee is offered complimentary. The best part, of course, is the view of the night sky. The Dark Sky Ordinance in place protects the night sky from light pollution and allows for unparalleled views of the Milky Way. I don’t have a nice enough camera to take a great shot, so the below photo taken by an actual guest of his, is re-posted with the host’s permission.
Basecamp Terlingua
Although we stayed at the property above, I also became aware of Basecamp Terlingua which features Tipis and Yurts that remind me of those found at El Cosmico in Marfa, but the really enticing find are the transparent Bubbles, from which you can view the beautiful stars while lying in bed.
Chinati Hot Springs
This property in Presidio (closer to Big Bend Ranch State Park (not to be confused with Big Bend National Park) features it’s own beautiful hot spring (as the name suggests) exclusively for guests. Choose from camping to fully-furnished cabins, and enjoy access to the 109-degree fresh mineral spring with purported therapeutic qualities. Remember that due to the elevation, desert nights can actually be quite cool. This spring recently appeared in Houstonia’s July 2019 issue as one of 20 Texas Swimming Holes. Don’t expect to find many places to eat, though: guests bring their own supplies to prepare in the community kitchen. There is a general store located about 20 minutes away by car.
Big Bend National Park
The national park offers several developed campgrounds suitable for tents, trailers, and RVs as well as the Chisos Mountain Lodge & Cabins. There are a few limited dining and grocery options within the park.
Where to Eat in Terlingua, TX
Cottonwood General Store- If you plan on doing any of your own cooking, a stop at this general store which is technically in a town called Study Butte is your best bet. It looks small, but is stuffed with just about anything you could need. I was even able to find a dog leash, dog food, and flea & tick medication for the dog we found, and the staff was incredibly friendly.
One of the rooms in La Kiva
La Kiva (Daily 5-12)- This bar was so unusual, but in the best possible way. Part cave (hence the name) part dive bar. We sat at a huge asymmetrical wooden table that was honestly a work of art. Dinosaur(?) bones adorn the walls and many of the surface areas. The appetizer menu had a surprisingly exotic choice: Provoletta Argentina. I texted a friend of mine who is from Argentina, and he said it sounded pretty authentic. We ordered it and it was awesome: grilled Provolone cheese topped with Chimichurri and served with garlic toast. The Chimichurri was a little spicy (not overly so!) and it was delicious. They also had Fried Okra in the appetizers if you want something with a little bit more of a local vibe. My husband and I both had steaks for entrees, but there were lots of options including pizza, salads, & burgers (including a veggie burger). Our steaks were a perfect medium-rare and the sauteed veggies were delicious. This was one of the best meals we had on our trip hands down. I saw mixed reviews about the service, but we were treated quite well. Excellent people watching, too: We were sitting next to a dude wearing tropical-print Bermuda shorts and a T-shirt with a leather tri-corner hat.
Starlight Theater (Sun-Fri 5-12; Sat 5-1)- Located at the heart of the Terlingua ghost town, this historical saloon is a must-see. Originally The Chisos Movie Theater entertained the towns-people of Terlingua in it’s mining days. When the entire town was abandoned, it was too. Later it was revived as “The Starlight Theater” a restaurant and bar, and served as the location for the first Terlingua World Championship Chili Cookoff in 1967. The Starlight today hosts live entertainment (schedule is always updated on their website) and is the permanent home to Clay Henry, the taxidermied beer-drinking goat that was elected Mayor of Lajitas. You read that right. Click the link for more info on Clay. It’s really quite amusing. My hubby and I ordered the chili appetizer which came to our surprise served like salsa in a small bowl surrounded by Tortilla chips. So we did as the Terlinguans (apparently) do and ate it with chips. It was quite good! We also couldn’t pass up the Chicken-Fried Antelope. Chances are, if you take the time to visit, you’ll also do a little time in the Terlingua jail—since that is where the restrooms for the restaurant are located.
Chili Pepper Cafe ( Thur-Tue 11-8:30, closed Wed) This mom & pop Mexican restaurant had guacamole and salsa that didn’t disappoint and some of the best enchiladas I had in awhile. A very simply appointed restaurant, but with several delicious authentic options, and served quite quickly.
Things to Do in Terlingua & Surrounding Areas
Explore Big Bend National Park
Visit Panther Junction Visitor’s Center. You’ll need to anyway to pay admission— pay once for 7-day access to be displayed in your windshield. Stick around for the 23-minute introduction video to the park. Explore the bookstore for materials on relevant wildlife as well as geography, geology, and astronomy. Check out the park’s suggested itineraries for activities based on the length of your stay. If you like to make your own schedule, check out the list of scenic drives and hikes. Unfortunately, we were unable to do as much as we wanted in Big Bend with our many snafus (the car getting stuck and Project Save Ruby). We decided to cover a lot of territory quickly taking the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive as well as the drive from Panther Junction down to the Rio Grande Overlook. We also tried to get down to the Santa Elena Canyon Overlook but high water over the road prevented us from getting there. Better luck next time. We also decided to hike the Lost Mine Trail. We planned originally to hike The Window Trail after, but a torrential rain that occupied the last 15-20 minutes of our earlier hike, soaked our socks and shoes thoroughly and we decided that attempting to hike 5+ miles in them after that would be miserable. The Window View hike, however, is an easy .3 of a mile and is a popular spot to watch the sun set. Another hike to consider is the highly-trafficked Balanced Rock Trail which is only about 2 miles and offers views of a balanced rock which has become emblematic of the park.
Start your morning with a good breakfast. We started with my favorite Protein Pancakes topped with some caramelized bananas (simply sliced and cooked in a skillet of coconut oil, & flipped once). Protein to keep you full, carbs for energy, and lots of Potassium to help keep your muscles from cramping.
Leave food locked in your car or provided lockers. Picnicking on the mountain trails is not recommended due to mountain lions and bears in the area.
Keep in mind that during summer months, temperatures can reach 110F in the desert, so hikes should be completed well before noon. Temperatures remain cooler (relatively—-up to around 98F) in the Chisos Basin. Talking with the staff at Panther Junction may help you decide when it’s best to tackle which trails.
Bring a full Camelback with you. Staying hydrated is important.
Drink an electrolyte mix like Hydrant before and after your hike. High exertion and extreme temperatures make it so water isn’t always enough.
Most hikes are well-marked, but try downloading All Trails in your app store for downloadable maps you can take with you even with poor connection.
It should go without saying, but supportive shoes are a must.
Make sure to wear sunscreen, and bring some along to reapply!
Visit Big Bend Ranch State Park
Not to be confused with the National Park, Big Bend Ranch State Park is a wonder in it’s own right. The two parks are lie just next to eachother. If off-road driving is your thing, you’ll love it here with mainly “unimproved roads”. Formerly occupied by many indigineous people, the park is dotted with pictographs (rock paintings) and petroglyphs (rock etchings).
This park was formerly privately-owned and holds a special place in my heart. A friend of mine, the late Ms. Marian Minniece’s father (James “Manny” Fowlkes) and uncle used to own this property, and increased it’s land holdings to become the size it is today—over half the size of Rhode Island by the time they sold it. She spent many of her childhood years in the Sauceda Ranch located here. I told her years ago how much I wanted to take a trip out to Marfa and Big Bend, and I can still hear her sweet, slow, Southern twang saying “Oh, Kate. Won’t it be lovely? You tell me when you’re goin’, and I’ll plan the whole I-tinerary for you!” I made sure to stop off in the Paisano Hotel in Marfa to see the ballroom where her wedding reception was held, and stopping here was another highly-anticipated part of our trip. She passed away almost exactly 2 years prior to this trip, and it made me feel incredibly close to her. If you live in Houston and feel like taking a gander, you can even check out the book Ms Marian Wrote about it, Fowlkes Family Legacy: The Big Bend Ranch State Park at the public library.
For suggested daily itineraries, check out this handy guide. A quick visit to the park website, and you’ll see “The Other Side of Nowhere” is the motto for this state park, and after having visited the neighboring national park you’ll understand why. Way fewer people, and less funding make this park more primitive, less frequented by visitors, and therefor arguably more desirable to get away from it all. Here is a great resource with all the hiking, mountain biking, off-roading, horse-riding, or even river activities you can consider here.
Visit The Terlingua Ghost Town
The Terlingua Ghost Town isn’t exactly as desolate as the official website would have you believe. It’s definitely still worth a visit (Make sure to have dinner in the Starlight Theater while you’re there-scroll up for my review of that.) but the inference you may confuse it with an abandoned movie set isn’t exactly accurate. Modern Terlingua has been “revitalized” with a few single story motels and art studios situated among “decaying buildings, mine shafts, tall tales, ruins, crotchety old-timers, a three-legged dog, too much cactus, and semi-friendly rattlesnakes.” Start by stopping in the huge Terlingua Trading Post where you’ll find a “Ghost Town Self-Guided Walking Tour Brochure” in exchange for a $2 donation to the restoration fund for Saint Agnes Church (which is interestingly misspelled not once but twice in the Brochure as St. Agnus) . It’s printed on a simple blue sheet of paper folded in thirds and takes you through some of the most notable structures of the area. Although I was fascinated by the mining shaft, the Old Perry Mansion, and many other crumbling buildings, the construction equipment surrounding the St. Agnes Church, and the racks of clothes and other merchandise schlepped on the porch of Casa de la Cultura kind of made it feel a little less authentic and more tourist-trappy. What does make it feel authentic, however, is hanging out on the porch of the Trading Post. On their website it even says “We sell stuff inside, but what we're really famous for is sittin' on the front porch, especially at sunset. Some people talk. Some listen. Some play the guitar and sing. Then -- little by little -- it gets dark. Admittedly that may not sound all that exciting, but folks come from all over, time and time again.”
Enjoy the Stars
We were lucky enough to enjoy the stars using a friend’s pretty sweet Orion telescope. You might also enjoy using a classic old-fashioned star-finder or using the Night Sky app on your smartphone or iPad to identify constellations or planets that are visible. Thanks to the dark sky ordinance there is a lot to see. We enjoyed doing this from the comfort of the dome we were staying in, but you may also consider the trek out to Big Bend Ranch State Park’s Sauceda Headquarters. Thanks to the remote location, views of the Milky Way are visible in much of this area.
Experience a Terlingua Chili Cookoff
Only if you’re visiting at the right time (The first weekend of November— lodgings will likely be sparse so plan accordingly) you may have the opportunity to stop off at not one but two famed cookoffs. Terlingua gets down to business. Proof of residency, and only winners of other chili competitions are allowed entry. We haven’t attended one yet, but it definitely looks to be worth our while for a future trip!
Have you visited Terlingua, Big Bend Ranch State Park or Big Bend National Park? Let me know if there are any hikes or places to eat or see that I missed highlighting!
